Good! you came to the right place. I've been suiting up for almost 10 years now. I've owned more than a couple of dozen suits and I learned by reading magazines (GQ primarily) and talking to tailors. I don't consider myself an expert, but I know enough to get someone started if they have no idea how to shop and fit a suit. If there's any take away you can get from this album, it's this: It doesn't matter whether or not your suit is cheap suit or a fine Italian brand suit. What matters in a suit is how well it fits you. You can make a suit that you bought at one of those warehouse for $80 and make it into a $1000 dollar suit. How you ask? well follow along
or you're about to buy one, make sure that you buy the right size. Never buy a suit that is too baggy. I'm trying to make you look classy, not go to clown academy or the playa's ball. You want to make sure that the suit fits you right. Standardized suit jackets are determined by the average size of chest, shoulders, and waist line.
Normally, you want to get the right measurement so it fits right. However, it all depends on your size really. If you are one of the skinny type, I recommend to get a suit that's one size smaller. So if you're a 36R (regular), go for a 34S (short). Regular or short is the length of the jacket skirt and sleeve. If you want more of the slender look, I suggest go for a "short" jacket. While the difference in length between a Regular and Short is less than around an inch and a half, the overall look is a world of difference.
Whether you're a big boy, muscular, or skinny, the way your suit is fitted to your body will make or break your suit. Find yourself a good tailor. He or she will make any suit of yours into a custom suit that only you can fit in. In the next picture, I will describe how each part of your suit should fit you.
a) Suit should literally hug your shoulders, almost a perfect contour. If you have a muscular shoulder, I suggest you take off that sissy shoulder pads (ask your tailor). b) sleeves should not be baggy at all. If there's too much room for your arms to move around, ask your tailor to trim it down. Just make sure it's not tight that you can barely fit your arms in there. c) The sleeve should end above the hinges of your wrist. The reason is so that the wrist of your dress shirt is showing at least a 1/4 or 1/2, this is good especially if you are showing off your cuff-links. d) Tape that waist! The waist of your jacket should contour your waist. e) Some suit pants come either pleated (folds on the front, starting from belt line) or not. Depending on your tailor, you can also have your pants cuffed or you can have it traditionally hemmed. There is no right or wrong answer, it's all about style.
for how long the sleeve should be on the suit jacket
This is definitely a matter of preference. Personally, I like to match my dress shirt in contrast to my suit jacket. However, you can pretty much do what you want nowadays. I think it's more about matching the dress shirt to tie, which is what I am about to go over in the next picture.
I am a tie man myself. I love it, I can tie a tie several ways. Now choosing a tie, to me, is dependent on what shirt I am wearing. If I am wearing a bright colored shirt, I will wear a tie that is in complete contrast of the shirt. You can also try to match the jacket, if you have the enough tie in your collection. However, if you are just starting out, I suggest matching your tie with the jacket. ALSO, skinny ties are in, fat ones are out. Again, appearance wise, skinny ties gives that slender look regardless of your size.
Now I've noticed a lot of hype with bow ties now. I've seen guys wear tight dress shirts with suspenders and a bow tie. I have nothing against bow ties, I own a few of them myself but I think I can't pull off that look.
one of the more neglected part of the suit is not wearing a pocket square. It doesn't have to be fancy at all. As a matter of fact, I've used Kleenex, folded it real nice and used it as my pocket square. You can use store bought handkerchief from Walmart or you can go fancy by buying silk ones at suit stores. There are dozens of ways to fold them. I like the traditional fold that only shows 1/4 of an inch on your chest pocket.
Here's a closer look on pleated pants and cuffing. On the left leg, there is no pleat while on the right, it has a single pleat. On the bottom of the pants, it has a single cuff. As I mentioned earlier, there are no right or wrong answer with that. It's entirely up to the person.
Match your dress socks with your dress shirts! I can't stress this enough. At one point, you will be sitting down and your socks will show. Classy men matches their socks with dress shirt.
A good set of suit can be ruined by the shoes. Now unless you're the 10th Doctor or Tony Stark, do not wear Chuck Taylor or Sneakers with a suit. It's completely unbecoming (IMHO) of that suit. Dress shoes can be bought at just about any place now and they are not expensive. You don't have to go out there and purchase a $100 Steve Madden shoes. You can pick up a nice shoes at Walmart for $30 and be done. However, if you have the cash to spare, I say hit up a nice department store and grab a shoe that's a little pointy. Dare to be different, buy a lighter colored shoe than your suit. Or, go traditional and buy a dark shoe with a dark suit or light shoe with a light suit.
I hope this guide gave you a little idea about suits and how proper fit works. As I stated earlier, you don't need to buy an expensive suit at all. I say invest in a couple of suits and have it tailored to your specifications. There are many places where you can suits for a fair price. Stay tuned for the advance guide. I will be going over fabric types, lapels, ventilation, in depth matching guide, modern fit/tradition/slim fits, and many more. SUIT UP!!